If fuel pressure is low after replacing pump.have a dc meter check for close to battery voltage on gray wire there should be a connector back at tank but if cant get to they make piercing probes for meters make single hole can put liquid electrical tape on later or backprobe connector.should not drop more than 1/2 volt on power side with pump running.i always run a jumper to negative battery terminal for meter ground connection best ground on car.next probe the black ground pump wire with positive meter probe and negative meter hooked to battery negative terminal.this is a ground to ground voltage drop ter should not read more than. Am I missing anything? Thanks for all so far - Chris Next steps, I figure, are: check manifold vacuum, make jumpers to allow reading resistance through TPS (signal to power or signal to ground?), change spark plugs to AC (I've seen Champions and others quit working for no apparent reason, may or may not show good with timing light.?), confirm pressure with the new pump, and invest in the cable for my Genisys. Could be vacuum modulator, I guess - it DOES have a hose/line to it and I wouldn't be able to hear a leak there. Car won't really get moving fast enough to even tell it's shifting, so tranny is unknown. Air filter looks pretty fresh and no debris blocking flow. Coolant temp sender turns cooling fan on and off properly, oil warning light goes out after start. Has coil pack ignition but all 3 packs are hitting, verified with timing light on all 6 plug wires.
Fuel pressure shut ioff 2004 buick century code#
It's got to have one or both cam and/or crank sensor, right? But I had a '89 Olds with the 3.8 and it gave a light and code when the cam sensor quit. Did have to replace a couple vacuum hoses before getting this deep in the car, but the rest look good and I can't hear any leaks. Plugs are NOT OE, at least - they're Champions, so they've been changed at least once. I want to check the pressure again to confirm the performance of the new pump, but other than that I'm back to square one. I also have a simple code reader (A-B jumper type), but it showed only a 12 for diagnostic mode. In gear, the car will barely power itself up the slightest hill.
And, as I probably did not report originally, the idle is not as smooth as I had thought, and out of gear the stumble gets really bad around 1400 RPM. Finally, disconnecting the TPS caused a bad stumble and set a light which went away when re-connected. Turned out not to be the case timing light shows all 6 cylinders firing.
I started removing plugs to check condition, and was excited when I thought I had found a bad plug wire. My diagnostic computer doesn't have the cable to fit this setup, so I thought, "What else other than fuel is not reported to the PCM?" Ignition was the only other thing that came to mind. I thought to disconnect the injectors one at a time, and each one caused some degree of stumble. So I replaced pump and sock, started the car hoping for the best, and the stumble is still there.
Took the pump and car info to my local o'Reilly.
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